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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.